Bon Jour France!
May 16, 2024
Arriving back to Nice for the second time in 7 days it was now with the intent
of enjoying the Cote D'Azur! Our original plan was to just take the train, but
family in Germany wisely had us rent a car. Into Nice we grabbed a quick bite
in Nice at a Chinese restaurant at a buffet style place where they nuke your
selected items, it gets a C+ and was fun but something we could have skipped. A
quick wander around before heading to our place was a nice way to get
orientated. Palm trees, sparkling water and lovely architecture give us the
"we have arrived in a special place" feelings.
Our place is in St Jean Cap Ferrat, which is just down the road from Nice. Ultra exclusive and one of the most expensive residential places in the world. The Rothschilds have a compound here and the 4 seasons is $4000/night. We stayed in the cheapest AirBnB we could find! Although we would argue the most unique kind of place. It was a two level apartment right on the water with views of the moored super yachts and the lovely village of Ville France Sur Mer. Painted blue and white with a spiral staircase it felt more like a ship than land based accommodation, Best of all it had a pier out front to take in the sun and swim from. Couldn't imagine a better place for a glass of Rose', which was waiting chilled in the fridge courtesy of our host.
Dinner was fish for Andy and steak frites for me. The most remarkable part of the meal was my steak arriving on fire. We are early in the season so things are not overly crowded and chaotic.
Up early and out the door for a big day of exploring. The first stop is Monaco.
You could smell the money! Beautiful people, cars, fashion, everyone dressed
beautifully. Every building is perfectly maintained no one was wearing shorts.
It’s like from every angle they want to be able to take a magazine worthy picture. Feeling out of place and underdressed we opted for a drive through
with thoughts of stopping in on our way back. With the Monaco F1 race getting
geared up a good portion of our drive was along the race course they were
setting up. In the harbor the biggest of yachts began arriving. On the roads we
passed all the super cars you could imagine. Our little Peugeot was a
conspicuous stand out next to all the luxury and wealth. At least we felt that way. Found our "cruising" along the Riviera playlist that made all the driving even better!
We didn't take the main road, but drove the waterfront road between towns. Only about 10 minutes longer and definitely more driving skill required but it was beautiful. Next stop, Menton. LOVE this town! So cute, charming and perfect in every way. Found a cute bakery to grab a little bite before the big day ahead. They have tables set up right along the water where we enjoyed our pastries/sandwiches, hot chocolate and the gorgeous view!
We walked the streets, had the best crepes of our lives, ham, cheese and mushrooms. Dessert crepe was made with homemade chocolate sauce and fresh whip cream. It was presented as a tower which was a nice spin to the usual. The main street had so many fun shops. Found some great French soaps that seemed so luxurious we had to buy a few. An energetic shop owner convinced us to leave with some lemoncello. We also took a turn through a market where we loaded up with salami, cheese and olives for a seaside snack. Everyone was very patient with Andy's high school French and left with a haul. The Socca, chick pea pancake, was something new and a lovely compliment to the odds and ends. We sat on bench overlooking the sea and had a very nice, although impromptu lunch.
Driving further on we crossed into Italy. Some guards waved us on by with no mention of passports. Looking down from the main road we spotted a marina with big boats. Winding our way down through town we arrived at the Marina of Cala De Forte, Italy and parked our car. We spent an hour wandering the docks oogling the mega yachts and making up back stories of who owned what, what they were off to and whether their crews loved or hated the. Everything felt very new and shiny. The docks were the nicest we had ever seen.
Continuing with our wandering we made our way into town where we found the market area. Super fun farmers market in a big old building. They had every type of food you could want the and flower stalls were stunning. We bought more stuffs and added a few trinkets to take home with us. The oranges were particularly juicy and wonderful. Out of the market and into a giant flea market we walk a1/4 mile of tents along the juncture between sea and river. You could literally buy everything here and yet we resisted. Andy tried on a sharp polo shirt and found he is a triple XL by Italian standards!
Sanremo, Italy was the next town. We heard great things, but it seemed cute Mediterranean towns began to blur. There was of course the piazza, plenty of food and shopping. We sat at a place with outdoor dining and enjoyed an Aperol Spritz & Champagne. Had to have a slice of pizza before we left Italy, but were not impressed. All the same it was fun.
We loved Menton so decided to head back there for dinner. We had dinner at L' Ambata. It was perfect! We shared a nice salad. I had my fritto misto (fried calamari and shrimp) with fries. Andy had shrimp and it was all tasty. Finished it off with homemade profiteroles that they bake there and make their own ice cream, chocolate sauce, pastry. Enjoyed it all sitting on the water’s edge overlooking the ocean. The wait staff have to run across the street to get from us to the kitchen. Dodging and yelling at cars while toting plates of Fruito d'mer was all part of the show. Our waitress was a 10. She had a great smile couldn't have been more helpful all while being decked out with tatts, urban street garb and the requisite metal piercings.
On the way home we wanted to spend a little time seeing Monaco. We did a quick change into our linens so we fit in a bit more and headed to the famous Monte Carlo casino. Wow, the money! All the expensive cars, fashion and beauty. Fun to see it all. Many folks walking in dressed to the 9s shook our confidence and opted for pics from the outside instead of risking being turned away. I hope we don't regret the decision. Formula 1 race is in a couple of days so they are setting up for the race. Bleachers overlooking the marina and racetrack. We parked the car and was able to walk right next to the mega yachts. Because it was night we could see in them. Gorgeous! One boat was 200 feet long and many close to that. Love how the big money boats have their own welcome rug with the boat name on it, chairs to sit and take off your shoes before you board. It all feels very swanky! Because the race course is through many of the streets we were able to drive it. Such a surreal experience.
Home around 11:30 and to bed after a very long, fun day!
Nice, France
May 18, 2024
Off to the flower market in Nice. So many gorgeous flowers! Just out of the flower market the streets are lined with lots of shops that have everything, herbs, salts, olive oils, soaps, trinkets galore! Love all of the restaurants that line the squares where people sit and eat, laugh and watch the day go by. You could spend days exploring the endless shops and sitting for a people watching lunch sipping a glass of wine.
Side note: walking the streets in all of these cute towns there are tons of flowers growing on the walls and along the walkways. Bright beautiful pink flowers next to vivid red flowers but the Jasmine extends the sweetest smell of all and you can smell it as you walk along the paths. I'm feeling the need to go home and plant some.
Enjoyed a little happy hour at our place with all the treats we have picked up at the different markets. We had some amazing salami, olives, baguette, French butter and cheese. Then went for a lovely swim in the Mediterranean. The water is so clear and perfect blue! Many of the neighbors were out enjoying the afternoon as well. Amazingly they lay their towels directly on the concrete. Swimsuit tops are optional. Two piers down there is an older madamoselle the color of mahogany that seems to start here day with an hour long swim/float before laying out on her towel reading a book for the entirety of the day. If it were a competitive event she would beat all comers for maximizing time in the sun.
Dinner out in Ville Franche-sur-Mer at this cute restaurant in the center of
town where the building surround you and the ivy grows over the walls. Pretty
area and felt very French.
Not a Good Start, but a Great Finish!
May 19, 2024
Off to find a boulangerie for breakfast. Found one that is just as perfect as all the others. Everything they put out is a work of art. We couldn't help ourselves and ordered a number of different items. I figured I must have a quiche while in France along with a few other treats. As we set on the park bench devouring our treats we were joined by the local pigeons who were patiently waiting for their share.
Walked to the local store which was nice. Priorities were wine and floaties! I started not feeling well and so we moved quickly. Before I knew it I was really hurting and Andy got me home right away. Turned out to be food poisoning. After a hard go at it and a two hour nap I was ready to float! The day was perfect with no wind and calm waters. A few hours later it was time for happy hour at our place. Loved everything about the float and down time at our cute place.
8:30 dinner in Ville Franche -Sur-Mer again which is a short 10 minute drive from our place. It is an adorable village along the water and on the smaller side but really has everything you need including gelato! :-) We sat feet from the water’s edge at the marina. We made friends with a neighboring table of Norwegians. All men and three generations coming to visit a grandson that is studying economics in Monaco. Boisterous and loud they were good company to talk travel, food and US politics! Another dinner that started around 8:30 and ended at 11:30. Definitely a leisurely pace. Had dinner at a very nice restaurant called Olivula. Everything was perfectly done and the staff was polished and fun. Wanted a crepe which they didn't have so moved to the next waterfront restaurant which had crepes and we were very excited until we say the most amazing ice cream dessert go buy so had to have that! Once again three hours later and headed back home.
It doesn't matter what time of day it is, our view is always magical. I can't
believe we got so lucky to stay here. Grateful Andy found it for us. Sat and
enjoyed to last minutes of the night looking out over the water and admiring
the yachts that dot the bay.
More Walking, Shopping, Eating and a Little Rain
May 20, 2024
We felt we rushed Nice last time so headed in for a bit more time. The flower
market is open every day except Mondays - today. Today it is more of a flea
market vibe where you can find just about anything but I especially loved the
stall that pieces of crystal where you can find just the right piece for your
chandelier. Looks like they had pieces from over a hundred chandeliers. Also,
beautiful silver everywhere. Everything was old in a charming, French way.
Found a little seafood restaurant with a great waiter. He was so nice and so French! Brought out the catch of the day and had Andy pick the one he wanted. Over and over pointed out the freshness of the fish by showing the pink gills. If you order oysters the wine is free and a second glass if they like you. During our meal our waiter and apparently the proprietor sits down with some friends and takes some wine for himself. Our most authentic French Bistro experience.
The weather is starting to turn and we headed back to our "happy spot". Relaxed while watching the clouds come in and a good rain over the bay.
8:30 dinner at the place we went to for ice cream the night before, Lou Bantry. It was an ok dinner, but sitting outside along the water is a favorite! A few hours later and back to our place.
Au Revoir to the South of France
May 21, 2024
Our last morning and it is gorgeous out but a bit windy! We went for a quick float where the wind wanted to take us away. It was a bit on the chilly side, plus we have a flight to catch so it was a quick one hour. Our neighbor lady is out every day, naked and sunbathing. I love that she just doesn't care and it feels very French. She is older and will swim for the longest time even in this windy weather. She is way tougher than us. She is out there every day from morning to night. I'm amazed how the French sit on the pavement all day bathing, drinking, eating and visiting. Seems so uncomfortable but doesn't bother them a bit.
Dropped the rental car at the airport and shuttled over to the terminal. I noticed a very nice black car with a very young women (who had a perfect body and big diamond ring on) and an older man get out. I can't help but look a little closer in these situations. It was Dennis Quad!
Flying home business class (yippy) we got in the business class/first class line to check in and Dennis was in front of us. Just to confirm it was him I was looking for clues. The DQ on all his luggage was all I needed. The line was moving slowly and we started chatting. I mentioned how she was lucky to get to bring such a big bag while I only had carry on. It was all light hearted and fun. We tried to play it cool and never lead on that we knew who he was. He was on the same flight as us to London. We quickly realized that pretty much everyone on the flight was from the Cannes Film Festival that was going on.
It was a two hour flight and they gave us an English tea experience with perfect little finger sandwiches, a biscuit with cream/butter mix and jam and a sort of crumpet filled with cream.
Flight went well and now on the flight back home via Vancouver, Canada. Love business class and really wish we could fly it always. Such a special treat!
Pits, Peaks, and Points
Cindy
Mediterranean and floating on our air mattresses in the
ocean. Magical!
Andy
Pits: Day 1 travel was a lot, missing time with Cindy seeing Munich together,
wimping out on walking up to the Casino in Monaco like we owned it.
Peaks: Family gathering in a Bavarian village, Cindy the star of the show at
business meals, our place at St Jean Cap Ferrat, filling the car with gas and
noting the cars driving by in order are Bentley, Bentley, Ferrari, Porsche. Our
side by side pod on the airplane, as far as we knew we were the only ones
aboard.
Points: Driving is a bit much to start, but once you get into the swing of
things totally manageable. Gaps are filled immediately, there is no hesitation
and scooter riders all have a death wishes. Could spend a lot more time in the
south of France.
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