Where it Smells like Sunshine! Corfu, Greece

 

Seattle to Corfu, Greece

September 10 – 11th, 2025

 

4 o’clock flight made for an easy departure from Seattle 9 1/2 hours later landed in Copenhagen. With a two hour layover we had time to get our first Danish. I had a yummy chocolate crazy looking thing that was amazing and he had a cinnamon roll type thing. I think this is the first time I picked the better choice. 3 1/2 hour flight to Athens. Definitely tired and a three hour layover in Athens gave us enough time to have some food and take a moment. Once they finally posted the gate information to head to court Phil it was a hall. Exit the airport back through security and walk, walk and walk. Just ready to get on the flight, but unfortunately it was an hour late and ended up getting into Corfu at midnight. Taxi driver dropped us off and couldn’t find our hotel. Andy went on an exploration walk for it. Found it, checked in and crashed. It was a grueling 30 hours of travel, but we made it!

 

September 12, 2025

Corfu, Greece

To bed by 1:30 in the morning and up at 5:00ish. Just enough to get us going. Andy got a little extra sleep this morning, which meant a little extra downtime for me. Out the door around eight where we got to walk the city before Everybody came out, it was quiet and beautiful. A really charming town. Now a local woman that was opening up her bakery and we couldn’t help ourselves and had a number of amazing items.  There’s one that surprised me that was Sesame that were made into a paste and put into a pastry and shockingly amazing! 

Had a great sandwich and then made it down to the waterfront where all the little women and some men all get together and float and do their swim for the morning. It was a perfect way to top off our first morning here! Definitely recommend the morning float with the locals!

Grabbed our rental car and drove West on the island to Palaiokastritsa. It is a little beach town area with cliffs so it is not flat but very scenic. Staying at Tango Studios, which has been an interesting find because they have two locations and no signs so Google maps is taking us all over the place finally was able to connect with the women through a local on WhatsApp. Found our place up on a hill overlooking the water of our own hammock, daybeds and plunge bath cool and refreshing. Special little spot. 

A quick change and off to Acapulco bar, which is 140 steps down a hillside, which also means 140 steps up! It is this little bar nestled on the cliff side. The feel here is definitely a vibe. Everyone’s young and hip, lots of cigarettes to be smoked while sitting in their bikinis, drinking swimming and playing cards. The brave ones would climb up the cliffside and jump and dive off of it. Maybe brave is giving too much credit, maybe just a lot of alcohol in them. 

Back to our room for a quick nap after not a lot of sleep the last couple days. Made it into Corfu city back where we started this morning for dinner. It’s about a 30 minute drive. Fun to see everything open in the evenings with their lights on and life in the streets. Walked to town, a great mezz at one spot and then finished off with calamari for dinner at another and they had live music. The name of the band should’ve been Chainsmokers because they smoked one after another. Two cute little old guys that were just having fun and everybody enjoying their music. Of course, finished with some fantastic gelato. Love, love, walking the streets here and taking in the whole energy of it.  Back to our place around 1 o’clock and hit the bed hard.

 

September 14, 2025

Corfu, Greece

Both of us up early, early like 5ish.  lounged for a bit and decided to beat the crowds, avoid traffic and find parking.

Our first stop was a beautiful monastery on a high point with the sea on all sides below dramatic cliffs. Someone here loves flowers, perfume in the air at every turn, especially the jasmine, need to plant some in our garden. Arched passageways with vines and plant life in the over head. It could have been a winery and we were envious of the people who lived there.

Stumbled into one of the many cute towns built high up. Locals slowly taking their morning coffee and discussing life. The listeners are always intently paying attention. Great little square with outdoor dining makes us want to come back. Although where do you park? Adding to the atmosphere was early morning singing from the local church.

 

Spending the day on a beach in Agios Gordios. Sun beds on the sea backed by cute restaurants and a little town. Breakfast at Sea Breeze, a smart three story open air resort with rooms and a pool. Our waiter had the biggest smile and the happiest Greek we’ve met so far. Many resorts allow use of their pools and sun beds are free if you eat and drink. 

Met an elder brit in his underwear who recently had gone for a swim and chatted him up about the cutest beach front cottage for next time. It is called Welcome to Elena’s (elenasapartments.com Mob. 6976070091 Tel. 2661053210) and definitely would love to try it.

Encouraged us to lunch at the Green Stone. It all started in the 60’s with a guy on a donkey setting up on family land with a little taverna. No electricity, no road and serving the hippie back packers. Town built up around him and we were fortunate to have lunch with his son as the proprietor. Lunch was overshadowed by the view and people watching. The orange cake was Oolah-lah!

Another float and nap after our delivered 12 euro bottle of local white. Seems to be the standard rate and gets the job done although no awards are in its future.

On our trek back to Paleokatritas. Spelled that without looking! We stopped in at an olive oil press. Run by an energetic elderly self proclaimed famous professor. At least from the pieces we understood of our conversation. All sorts of machinery with cobwebs awaiting the next harvest of olives. We bought a jar of olives we can’t take home on the flight and may or may not eat because we liked him and it completed the experience. 

Acapulco Bar, last stop, was a bar restaurant with pool at the top of a cascade of stairs going down to the water. With drinks in hand we descended past the pool, terraced areas with lounge chairs, and olive trees to our little spot overlooking, wait for it….another stunning bay. Loaded with Brit’s and Germans it had a very bohemian vibe. Naps, card games, books, devices and quiet conversations. Easy place to relax! We took a dip to cool off and watched all the rental boats come in from a day on the water. Good entertainment watching boater skills diminished by booze. One in particular involved a couple tear in, throw the boat in reverse and terrorize the nearby swimmers. They then both jump off the boat to cliff jump. Panic sets in with the boat drifting away towards the rocks. A spirited swim and scramble aboard has the boat saved. All in all a great recommendation from a couple we met the night before. 

Cindy found a couple of cute bracelets as mementos of a new favorite place in the world.

Finally home for a sunset on our porch, a much needed shower and a nap that was so hard to get up from.

Dinner at Spiros BBQ, excellent meal either way lights out sauce on the spit roasted chicken and the smoked osso bucco.

Cindy’s second gelato and another piece of syrup soaked cake completed our day.

 

September 15, 2025

Corfu

 

Our last day in a place that smells like sunshine. Sad to go and scheming about shortening our stay elsewhere to come back for a few more days. Regardless we both agreed we will make another visit to Corfu. A month could be happily spent checking out cute towns and post card perfect beaches. We are quickly packed and say our goodbyes to Hotel Tango.

 

We chose a bakery for breakfast housed in a small stone cottage. The bright and cheerful baker had a case full of cookies, some phyllo pastries and the largest sugar donuts ever. We split a donut between us and were very happy. 

Further down the road was the beach that faced Acapulco Bar. A possible place to stay next time on the cheap. Although just fair reviews and an arduous hike up hill to the bus station if you are without wheels.

On the main drag we passed a church and stopped to walk through the elaborate grave yard. Out front were the remnants of a big lamb bbq, likely from the day before. Note to keep our eyes open for fun community events.

Off to the airport area ahead of our boat ride to Albania. The stop was to watch landing jets flyover. There is a viewing bridge over the water a few hundred yards from the end of the runway where you can stand right under the flight path. Seeing them come from far off leaves plenty of time for the excitement to build. Passing just overhead did not disappoint and we were close enough to feel the woosh. So exhilarating we stuck around for three landings and left with big smiles. How cool!!

 

Pits, Peaks & Points -Corfu

 

Cindy

Peaks: Agios Gordious day at the beach. Sweet waiter at Sea Breeze.  Loungers on the beach.  Lunch at Green Stone Taverna.  Swimming with the old ladies.  Greek night - when the owner started to show off his love of dancing….the real Greece.  Elia Restaurant in Corfu city… pork on the spit was amazing!

Pits: struggling to find our hotel in Corfu City after 30 hour travel day. 

Points: Stayed at Katoni Sweets in Corfu. Great location, quiet, clean, comfy beds and they have a storage locker you can use while exploring the city! There is an outdoor shower right where you swim so you can rinse before you continue your day or travels.

Andy

Peaks: morning swim with the old ladies in the city of Corfu. Best doughnut with sweet bakery man.  Olive oil man at his factory.  5€ for a half liter of wine.

Pits: Google maps losing its brains on the one way roads.

 

Come back or keep going:

Cindy: come back!

Andy:  come back

 

Albania....The Sunshine Continues!

 

Corfu, Greece to Himare, Albania

September 15, 2025

Through old town Corfu to the port to drop the car and catch our ferry. Some of the boats run hydrofoils that cause them to rise up out of the water once they hit speed. We were on a more traditional boat and enjoyed being out on the water in open air. Pro tip be mindful of getting off early as you have to clear customs and the folks at the back of the line were hating life standing in the sun and heat.

We landed in Saranda which is a super port beach town. The ferry driver came in hot and managed not to scrape any point. Armed with a pile of Lek and an 80 to 1 exchange rate we found an excellent seafood meal for $40.

Checking out our car was efficient enough but came with some extras, can’t return it early, we fill it with cheap diesel and want you to put the good stuff in because it will run better and it’s $300 security deposit or your passport. Oh yeah we will keep our pass port. The car sucks and we will be grateful if it just gets us where we need to go and gets us back. It showed up unwashed, bald tired, disheveled radio and an illuminated engine light. So we’ll see.

We unexpectedly found ourselves on one of the most beautiful roadways in the world. Along the coast it winds it ways up and over multiple mountain passes. Twisting and turning back and forth over the smoothest asphalt you’ll ever see made for a wonderful drive. We saw many motorcycle groups rolling through pushing their luck on the curves. Meanwhile Cindy was terrified questioning the chances of us reaching our destination safely. While Andy was wishing for a car with more go than the dumpy Citroen diesel jelly bean.

Himare seems wonderful and we are checked into a room with a big view of the water and hopefully a corner glimpse of the sunset. Our hotel is spotless run by a lovely family that roll out some of the best hospitality we’ve ever experienced. Hotel Arxontiko, for $80 a night is not to be missed!

Our 2 hour afternoon naps keep coming and are the deepest sleep we’ve ever had. It’s guilt that drives us to get up and literally painful transitioning to being fully awake. The plus side is having energy for the evenings.

Off to explore town on foot and track down some pizza and stroll the waterfront promenade. The beach is a step down from what we had in Corfu but still beautiful. On the opposing side is a string of restaurants to choose from. All vaguely similar in their offerings, vibrant and feel very new like this place is just getting underway. Thinking of which places to visit through the course of our stay. Pizza was ok and a good appetizer, but we need something more substantial.

On the way back to our hotel and the well touted restaurant we stumble into a dark alleyway between the buildings that happens to have been setup as a cozy dining spot. No menu and you get what they cook. The instantly likable son lets us know they can’t take us tonight so we make a reservation for tomorrow. Very excited!

Back to our hotel for dinner. Sitting on their deck enjoying all that Albania has to offer. Our meal was excellent and the service was even better. They received a 2024 trip advisor award which is unique with most other establishments around the world highlighting awesomeness from years past. We were tended by the two sons and dad who you would instantly say are related. Cindy was overjoyed with the veal and more fish for Andy. The wine was excellent and $7 for a half liter. The boys are nearly interchangeable and offer a continuous stream of kind service. The dad while stern with his kids gives only smiles. He has all these great phrases he would use over and over which made us smile. The best the best, yes please yes please, welcome welcome. Maybe limited by vocabulary but who cares his intentions were the best. Enjoy my place, let me share my infectious enthusiasm and this will be a memorable evening you will smile about and cherish!

Through dinner there were too gentleman engaged in great conversation and were so fortunate to be invited. A few more bottles were consumed and we bounced from subjects spanning idiocy of American politics, the British royals transition to middle class soap opera, there was the guilty pleasure of unwinding baddies and back stories, pot, past travels and experiences in Albania so far. A lovely end to the evening and we look forward to seeing them again. Per from Sweden now living in Malta and John from Oxford shire.

In an almost tragic end to the day Andy came within a whisker of tumbling down the stone stair case. Having three too many glasses of wine and trying to navigate a strange place in the dark was not so smart.

Ending thoughts, the Albanian people are just lovely. There is much to enjoy and the thoughts of rushing back to Corfu are fading.

 

September 16^th, 2025

Himare, Albania

Lying in bed looking at the water in the dawn hours is our morning ritual. The only difficulty is coaxing ourselves from bed to open the curtains.

A quick shopping trip in the morning for an end of season what’s left hat and some line to anchor our tubes while floating. Almost not worth mentioning except for the hardware store that was tiny and packed like a hoarders one car garage. Somewhere in there was every item one could possibly need.

No plans other than to lounge out on a sun bed, float for a bit and maybe catch a nap. Check, check and check. The beach was just a short walk and we were in the front row. The water clear as gin and dazzlingly blue. Our floaty tubes mark us as Neanderthals next to the chic Europeans. However, emerging after an hour intertwined and ultimately relaxed we always get an envious comment.

In between beach stints we find a lovely lunch under a trellis at Brothers. Pork gyros, beers and perfectly paced. Feeling very upscale walking from the beach to a proper lunch. Definitely recommend this place!

Off the beach, showered and squeaky clean we head to the next beach over for the sunset. Ours is obscured by a hillside. Hoping to lounge in one of the netted beds above the beach and had to settle with watching the young couples enjoying the prime spots. Kind of square hammocks lined with pillows and heavy blankets. Maybe in Ksamil. The sunset was just ok to start as the sun dipped and then proceeded to get better and better in the hazy horizon.

Stumbled across a number of beach side bars setting up for the evening rave. Fires were being built, puffy embroidered pillows laid out, lights being set up and Middle East tinged house music make us want to come back to see what unfolds. 

We were so excited to eat in the alley. With mom cooking in the back, the son tackling the front and dad somewhere on his boat catching the fish. Such potential and unfortunately the meal was just ok and the two man show made things feel rushed for the number of diners. We did our best but left more food than we would have liked. The highlight was meeting some Swedes giving us the thought for a future in August to visit the Archipelago.

We walked back from the main strip connecting with Par and John again for more wine and conversation. Of course, the best the best wine. Lovely through and through and we are richer for having met them. Always interesting and incredible conversationalists! Apologies to the hosts for keeping them up again. They work so hard.

 

September 17, 2025

Himare, Albania

We booked a boat trip that promised beaches, caves and views along the water. The boat was unlike anything we’d seen, sharp angled with a cascading back deck it was very cool. Thumping music and we were off with 20 of us.

The mountains go straight up out of the water. So jagged and steep they appear almost unhikable although there is the occasional trail or switch backed road. Along our ride out we pass pocket beaches accessible only by boat and the occasional town or resort area.

We stop here and there to enjoy a swim, lounge on the beach and take in the beauty. Some of the swims include caves which makes the water iridescent. Hoping the pictures capture it. Nice chats with folks from all over Brazil, Netherlands, UK, Germany and Manhattan. Fun to hear where these seasoned travelers have been around the world and they have discovered. All have the curious spirit interested in exploring something new, share for others to enjoy, aren’t trying to compete and happily share their challenges.

Another 2hr afternoon nap feels so good and is so hard to rise from.

Cindy rushed me out the door salty from the day to make sure we touch base with Par and John for dinner before we leave. We sit for some wine and make plans for dinner tomorrow at a place we both were considering. A drive up into the hills and promises of a great view.

Andy was hoping to people watch at the beach rave. Maybe tomorrow night as the power from our hotel onward suddenly went out. Plan B was opting instead for a walk and some gelato. Success!

 

September 18, 2025

Himare, Albania

 

Today we are exploring. First stop old Himare to walk through the ruins of a bishop’s residents. All to ourselves up the cobble stone hill to a great view and the remnants of a building from 300AD. A newer structure from 1000AD in much better shape housed a church and some frescoes.

Stop 2 was in a beach town for breakfast, which was excellent. Avocado toast with sunny side eggs for me and a BLAT for Cindy. We unexpectedly found ourselves in a heated discussion with a local who informed us we were evil upon learning we are from the US. Everyone in the place was watching things go down. More intense than threatening. He was very upset about the US efforts and alignments in Gaza. Similar in some ways to the extremists in our country, unwilling to hear or listen anything counter to his beliefs. Things settled and he wrote us an itinerary of things we should see in Albania and said we seemed cool. Okay a bit bizarre, but we’ll take the safe landing. In addition to the just what we wanted food the waitress was a lovely American. She stepped away from a corporate job to travel and took advantage of Albania’s friendly policy towards Americans working for up to a year.

Dhermi was the extent of our travels which was billed as a quieter Himare. We beg to differ and barely stepped out the car. However, there is bakery in the part of town with a pistachio mousse that knocked our socks off!

Andy continued on with a solo mission to drive to the top of llogara pass which is straight up from the sea. Not all that high at 3300 feet but the views are superb and the road is impressive. The top feels like the sierras with pine trees, the smell and pleasantly cool. There is a small chalet for lunch with endless views down to the water.

 

Connected again we drove back to Himare for beach time, a nap on the sun beds and a light meal at the little place across from our hotel perched above the water. Hoping for pizza our waitress let us know tomorrow was their last day of the season, her pizza guy quit, she was handling all of it and they had a limited menu. Despite all the challenges they provided the best  calamari and Greek salad of the trip. Our waitress chatted about her journey to Australia, the challenges of being there during Covid and finally saying “fuck it” I am going home. Fed up with Albanian men and staffing challenges she let loose with they are babied by their mothers, lazy, want to smoke and do drugs! Lastly she’d be over the moon to hire someone from outside of Albania.

 

Some downtime before our last dinner in Himare. Sharing a taxi with Par and John we made our way upwards to a chic place with a great view. We had cocktails all around to start. John and Cindy continue to align and wound up with pina coladas, that were unblended and much lighter. We shared a round of appetizers anchored by some extra garlicky bread and spread. The couples Cindy and John and Andy and Par ordered same-sies, of sea bass and braised beef. The fish was prepared perfectly, and the beef went unfinished. The conversation is excellent as ever, marked travel tales, managing through life’s difficulties and lots of laughing. 

John ever insightful has us deeply thinking about ourselves when he observed “when I asked about you, you responded with details of everybody around you.” True, what does that say about us and how do we feel about it???

Back to the hotel for another round of keeping Andreas and his wife up late, all the desserts, a couple Amarettos and a final bottle of another best wine. In total nearly five hours sailed by with flowing and ranging conversations. So lucky to have met these thoughtful genuine and generous people. Wishing them only the best as we part.

 

September 19, 2025

Himare to Ksamil, Albania

Our last breakfast and a final picture with Andreas and his wife before we leave a, hope to come back to spot, Himare.

After hitting home runs this far on the trip things have taken a turn. Nothing catastrophic but not near the level of what we have come to expect. Our side trip to Gjrokaster although picturesque from a couple of angles is really two crossing streets lined with touristy chochkies. The Cold War tunnels proved largely unfindable and we spent the majority of our time climbing the slippery stone streets. Eventually we did find them, but the next tour was 45 minutes and we didn’t want to wait. Our rotisserie chicken lunch topped us up on much needed protein but left us with a very upset stomach.  The drive over the mountain pass though was a highlight.

Ksamil, we have landed into an overrun beach tourists town that was likely lovely before it became overrun by highly inebriated sun worshippers. We arrive at our place to hugs from our octogenarian host and body language our way past the no common language barrier. It’s a rock house eclectically furnished and decorated. It makes weird sounds on its own in addition to what’s coming from the dance party outside. The bed is tiny, promising a challenging night of sleep. Or maybe not as we crash out for 90minutes of blissful napping.

Catching the last of the sunset we emerge and walk the town. Many folks out doing the evening stroll and tracking down dinner at the plentiful number of restaurants. Fun bars decorated in beach themes, pirate ships and what have you offer endless happy hours and the promise of a big night. Girls are dressed in their best with the boys slumming in slides and T-shirts. Many, based on their condition, have started things way too fast. We had a nice Italian meal and spent some time walking around plotting where to eat tomorrow. The bar, vw bus seems like a must for a cocktail.

  

In the background we are working to keep our mouths shut as our kids make decisions and wrestle with apparitions that don’t appear to be all that sensible.

 

The town is growing on us.

 

September 21, 2025

Ksamil, Albania

Our place Villa Mustafaraj was in the ideal location steps from the beach and an easy walk to the center area of shops, bars and restaurants. Super cute and odd at the same time. Built of rock and tucked in the trees. We had our own kitchen that went mostly unused and a terrace for taking in the view and meals. Odd in that the shower was the shape of a rhombus there were doorways under 6’ tall. Vines wrapped around all of it and the only remaining place that felt what old Ksamil was before the tourist boom. Our hosts were a cute older couple. They were tiny, bright and full of life. Always smiling and helpful. She even moved our sink washed laundry from the backs of chairs and draped over the clothes line to properly pinned. Even our underwear. He was a specialist in the lock Butrint archeological site. Somehow we managed  was through body language and common words only. Google translate would have cheated us out of the experience. All for $80 per night which included shower towels that were like luffa. LoL! The negative was the tiny bed.

There is a hand that extends out over the water. The line is nonstop all day long.  We were up early and made our way with just a few people ahead of us. Everyone helped take pictures of each other. It was a little wobbly making our way up but we managed.

We spent the day on the beach, dipping occasionally to keep cool. We both were bitten by little fish. Cindy was nipped and Andy was attacked by a salt water piranha (not really, but kind of) that drew blood and removed flesh. Stayed to the sunset with a nap or two along the way.

 

Just the right amount of time to enjoy Albania’s beach scene. Can easily eat well for $25 per day total. The local beer and house wines are quite good. Driving mostly involved navigating twisty cliff side roads, tight passing that always sorts itself and encountering tight cliff, and our crappy Citroen which drove well and somehow made it despite how it looked. People were always nice and places kept spotless. “Please” is attached to everything erroneously yet endearing, “yes please, welcome please and thank you please” we’re all common uses. We leave borderline between comeback or there is something else we would rather explore.